Rio Celeste Hike
Legend says that Rio Celeste (literally “light blue river”) was created when God finished painting the sky, and dipped his paintbrush in the river. While the explanation for the amazing bright turquoise color of the water is not as poetic – it is due to the presence of minerals that reflect the sunlight in a way that makes it appear blue – it is no less impressive.
You can hear and read about it, and look at pictures all you want. It’s really something you need to see in person to understand!
If you are in relatively good physical condition and are not afraid to get a bit muddy, it’s hard to think of a better hike. Just long and challenging enough so that you feel like you got a nice workout, but not so much that it will knock you out. And, well, the scenery is something out of a fantasy world.
Entering the National Park
As you arrive to the National Park entrance, there is a secured parking lot. It will cost 2000 colones (about $3.50-4 USD) to park there. If the weather has been rainy, there will probably be a lot of mud. In this case, there is a place where you can rent rubber boots, right before the entrance of the National Park. You’ll need to pay the entrance fee at the ranger station, and there will be bathrooms and water stations so you can fill your bottle. The hike should take about 1.5-3 hours, depending on how fast you go.
Rio Celeste Waterfall
The first part of the trail is not too much of a challenge until you get to the steps that go down to the waterfall. There are several hundred stairs, of varying heights. When you start to reach the bottom, the falls appear in all their glory! You’ll probably want to stay there a while, enjoying the beauty of this place, and taking pictures that will likely not do it justice. Keep in mind that, while it is tempting, swimming is not permitted due to the minerals in the water.
Of course, the walk back up is not quite as fun, but nothing impossible, especially if you take it slow. When we got back up, we noticed a few people deciding to end the hike there, and honestly, we considered it, too. If this happens to you, don’t give up! The rest of the trail is stunning, too.
Laguna Azul, Borbollones and Teñideros
After the waterfall, there is about another kilometer to go. The first stop is the “mirador”, an observation platform, which usually offers a great view, I’m sure, but is currently closed (at least, as of March 2020). Rio Celeste then makes another appearance, as you get to the Laguna Azul (blue lagoon), which was a vibrant, darker blue than the waterfall. Strange smells of sulfur start to follow you as you reach the borbollones. These are hot springs which make the river bubble, a nice reminder that we’re on a volcano!
You’ll get to a bridge to cross the river which is great for pictures, and then find the teñideros. This is where the magic happens, and you see the point where the water starts turning turquoise.
Then, it’s time to go back. You’ll probably be ready for a good meal after the hike. There are a couple of sodas right outside the park which should be perfect for that!
**IMPORTANT: Please note that if you are visiting during the rainy season (May to November), or it has been raining a lot, the river may not be as blue (or not at all). Take this into consideration when you are planning a trip there, as you could be disappointed.
How to get there:
Rio Celeste is located in the Tenorio National Park, close to the towns of Bijagua and San Rafael de Guatuso in the Alajuela province. From Nuevo Arenal, the drive to the park takes less than 1.5 hours.
You’ll need to head up Guatuso Road, and then west when you get to Guatuso. This route remains unpaved for most of the way.
If you are coming from pretty much anywhere else in the country, you will likely have paved roads for the entire trip. From San José, it will take you about 3.5-4 hours to get there:
From Liberia, the drive time is a little under 2 hours. You will need to go through Bagaces on Route 1, and then turn on Route 6 to Bijagua:
Schedule and rates:
The park is open every day, from 8 am to 4 pm. **The latest that you can enter is 2 pm.**
Rates: 800 colones for nationals / $12 USD (~4,500 colones) for foreigners
Where to Stay
There are a few nice options for accommodations around Bijagua, close to the Tenorio Volcano National Park. We’d suggest 1-2 nights in the Rio Celeste area, to explore the park and enjoy the rainforest. The hotels here are small, unique, and will make you feel right at home. You’ll find anything from charming mountain lodges and quaint B&Bs, to luxurious boutique hotels! Check out some great ideas to get you started below.
