Costa Rica is a small Central American country which is best known for its incredible biodiversity and natural beauty. It particularly stands out as the happiest, safest and most peaceful nation in the area – even abolishing their army in 1948. The country has also been a remarkable example for the use of renewable energy, with at least 98% of its electricity coming from renewable sources since 2015. All of this (and so much more!) considered, it’s no wonder the “Switzerland of Central America” attracts close to 3,000,000 visitors yearly! Find out more about Costa Rica here.
History of Costa Rica
Pre-Hispanic Costa Rica
A lot of Costa Rica’s Pre-Columbian history has unfortunately been lost or erased due to the European invasion of the area. Before the Spanish arrived, there was a population of about 400,000, spread over the entire country. The indigenous societies were organized into chiefdoms, or cacicazgos. The cultures here were divided between two main areas: The Mesoamerican area, a large cultural region extending from central Mexico all the way to Costa Rica; and the Intermediate Area, which is the zone located between Mesoamerica and the Andes.
In Costa Rica, the Mesoamerican influence can especially be seen in the Nicoya Peninsula. The people there mostly spoke Chorotega, and they are particularly well-known today for their pottery work.
The rest of the current Costa Rican territory was part of the Intermediate area, with more influence from South America. The native languages in this part of the country were from the Macro-Chibcha linguistic family. However, there was much more diversity in the cultures and customs here, compared to the Mesoamerican area. Gold was the main indicator of status in this area. This is also where the famous, and very mysterious stone spheres created by the Diquis culture originated, in the South Pacific.
Spanish Colonization of Costa Rica
Christopher Colombus arrived on the East coast of Costa Rica in 1502, which marked the beginning of the colonial era. He is said to have given the country its name – “rich coast”, as it was abundant with gold at the time.
The conquest was not an easy task! The first attempts in the Caribbean were not successful, due to the intense resistance from the indigenous people, as well as the treacherous terrain. The Nicoya Peninsula is the first area to succumb to Spanish authority, around 1520.
During the second phase of the conquest, the Spaniards were able to gain power over the natives, bringing them close to extinction. They started to establish colonies in the central region in the 1560s. Then, Costa Rica was part of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, more specifically, it was the last province in the South of the Captaincy General of Guatemala. Its first capital, established in 1563, was Cartago.
Due to its isolated location, the scarcity of natives available for forced labor, and a lack of natural resources, Costa Rica was largely overlooked and neglected by Spain. This allowed a relatively autonomous, agricultural society to form. In the absence of a real native workforce, the Spanish settlers needed to all tend to their own land. It’s possible that this set the foundation for the stable, and relatively egalitarian democracy that the country is still known for today.
Independence from Spain
On September 15, 1821, Costa Rica gained its independence from Spain. At the end of the Mexican War of Independence, Guatemala declared all of Central America independent.
Post independence, Costa Rica was divided into 2 factions: the republicans, from the liberal cities of San José and Alajuela, who were in favor of complete independence; and the imperialists, from Cartago and Heredia, who wanted to join the Mexican Empire. This eventually lead to Costa Rica’s first civil war, in 1823. The opposing forces faced off in the Battle of Ochomogo, which was won by the republicans. After the war, the state’s capital was moved to San José, and Juan Mora Fernández was elected as the first head of state.
Costa Rica was part of the Federal Republic of Central America, from 1823 to 1838. However, it remained very autonomous during this time, and developed quite independently from the Federal Republic. In 1938, it formally withdrew and proclaimed its sovereignty, becoming the Free State of Costa Rica.
In 1847, José Maria Castro Madriz was elected president and brought forth many changes during his mandate. He officially changed the name of the state to the Republic of Costa Rica, with the promulgation of the reformed Constitution of Costa Rica, in 1848. His wife, Pacífica Fernández Oreamundo, also designed its new flag, which is the one we know today.
Filibuster War
During this time, we can witness another very defining event for Costa Rica’s history and national identity. In 1856, William Walker, a filibuster from the United States, had gained power over Nicaragua. Seeing the threat this posed to the territory, Costa Rican president Juan Rafael Mora Porras declared war on the filibusters. The people defended their country fiercely, winning the Battle of Santa Rosa. You can still visit the Casona, which was the base for their forces, in the Santa Rosa National Park today.
The Costa Rican forces went on to defeat Walker once more, this time in he Battle of Rivas, in Nicaragua. Most famously, Juan Santamaria (who went on to give his name to the San José International airport), burnt down the filibusters’ stronghold, causing the enemy to retract and making him a national hero.
Moving Towards a Modern State
In the 19th Century, Costa Rica experienced significant economic growth, thanks to coffee production and exportation. This remained the main source of income for the country up until the late 1990s and contributed greatly to its development.
As Costa Rica became more a more democratic country, a series of social reforms, benefiting the working classes in particular, was implemented. The most significant were the “Social Guarantees”, in the 1940s. These were the result of a collaboration between the president at the time – Rafael Ángel Calderón Guardia – the leader of the Communist Party, and the Catholic Church’s leader. Their biggest achievements were the Caja Costaricense del Seguro Social (Social Security/universal healthcare), the establishment of the University of Costa Rica and the Labor Code, which included very progressive rights for workers at the time.
Civil War and Second Republic
The social reforms of the 1940s were great achievements, however, this government did not satisfy everyone. There were accusations of corruption, and the president’s ties with the Communist Party were controversial. Within this context, there was a supposed fraud during the elections in 1948 which caused them to be annulled by Congress. This was the detonator for a civil war that would last 44 days.
The head of the revolutionary forces, José Figueres Ferrer, assumed the leadership of the de facto government of Costa Rica after the war. He upheld his promise to keep the Social Guarantees intact, and went further by abolishing the army and racial segregation, as well as establishing female suffrage. These changes lead to the adoption of a new Constitution in 1949, marking the beginning of the “Second Republic” of Costa Rica – a modern, peaceful and more egalitarian state.
A Tourist’s Paradise
Thanks to it’s amazing natural beauty, and relative political stability, Costa Rica started to attract more and more visitors from around the world. Tourism is now the country’s main industry, surpassing coffee production around 1995.
Adventure and ecotourism are particularly popular in Costa Rica, and understandably so! With about 25% of its territory protected in national parks and reserves, volcanoes, two coasts, and some of the best adventure tours in the world, there’s certainly a lot to explore.
Provinces of Costa Rica
Costa Rica is made up of seven provinces, each of them unique and diverse in its own way: San José, Cartago, Heredia, Alajuela, Puntarenas, Guanacaste and Limón. These are then composed of 82 cantons, further divided into 484 districts.
San Jose
Located inland, near the middle of the country, San José is home to the capital city. It’s also the most populated province, with 1,635,144 inhabitants, as of 2018.
San José city, the capital, is of course one of the main attractions here. Full of history and culture, it’s very different from most “ecotouristic” destinations that Costa Rica is so famous for. However, it’s interesting to take a day or two to walk around and explore the many landmarks and museums around. Some of the most popular spots include the beautiful National Theater, the Museum of Pre-Columbian Gold, the Jade Museum and the National Museum of Costa Rica.
The province is not just about the capital, though. It’s also home to some of the most amazing natural beauties that Costa Rica has to offer. Mount Chirripó, for example, is the highest point of the country, with an elevation of 3,821 meters. On a clear day, you can see both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean from the summit! San Gerardo de Dota is also worth mentioning here. It’s heaven for birdwatchers in search of the resplendent quetzal, and hikers looking for quiet cloud forest trails.
Cartago
Also located in the center of Costa Rica, Cartago is a a province with a rich history. The city of Cartago was the country’s first capital during the colonial times. It’s also home to the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, a beautiful Byzantine style basilica, which is the site of a pilgrimage that takes place every year, in the days leading up to August 2nd. This is a massive event in which approximately 1 to 2 million believers participate, walking to the basilica from various places in the country to demonstrate their devotion to the Virgin of Nuestra Señora del los Ángeles.
You’ll also find one of the few archaeological sites in Costa Rica in Cartago: the Guayabo National Monument, located near Turrialba. Here, you can visit a portion of what was a pre-Hispanic city, from approximately 1000 BC to 1400 AD. Thanks to the impressive structures found here, such as aqueducts, stone paved roads and more, the site was recognized by the American Society of Civil Engineers as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.
You can also visit two fascinating volcanoes in Cartago: Irazu and Turrialba. The Irazu Volcano is the highest active one in Costa Rica, but also one of the most easily accessible ones. It has a beautiful emerald green lagoon in one of its craters. The Turrialba Volcano is currently quite active, and occasionally wakes up and covers the Central Valley with ashes. Because of this the National Park is currently closed, but you can still get close to the base for a great view.
Heredia
Heredia, in the North-Central area, is the smallest province in Costa Rica but still incredibly diverse. The city of Heredia and its surroundings is growing fast, as many national as well as international companies have established themselves here.
Heredia is also full of culture and traditions. The little town of Barva, for example, is well-known for its colorful festivals with cimarrona music and mascaradas. People wear giant masks, dance (sometimes on stilts), eat delicious street food, and from time to time, hit each other with pig bladders (you read that right). It’s all great fun, and thousands of people participate every year.
While there aren’t as many plantations as in the past, coffee culture is still an important part of this province as well. The world-famous Café Britt has its main plantation in Heredia, where they started Costa Rica’s very first coffee tour!
The north of the province, is heaven for both nature enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies. The Braulio Carrillo National Park offers great hiking at the Barva Volcano, and the birdwatching is amazing in the lowlands of Sarapiqui. Of course, we can’t forget the incredibly scenic Sarapiqui river, for fun rafting on class III-IV rapids!
Alajuela
The city of Alajuela is part of the Central Valley, together with those of San José, Heredia and Cartago. This is the most urbanized part of the country, and where most of the population lives and works. Costa Rica’s main airport, San José (SJO) is actually located in Alajuela, along with many large manufacturing companies, mainly for exportation. Agriculture is a huge part of the economy here, as the province produces most of the country’s coffee and sugar cane.
Alajuela is also home to the most iconic volcano in Costa Rica: the Arenal Volcano! Most people visiting the country spend at least a couple of nights here, and it’s easy to see why. There’s not much you can’t do here: the area has the best adventure tours and hot springs in the country, and the wildlife observation can be amazing as well.
Located just a bit over an hour away from SJO airport, the Poas Volcano is another popular stop. You can walk right up to the main crater, which happens to be one of the biggest ones in the world, and is currently quite active!
Hikers will be delighted here, too. There are trails of different lengths and difficulty levels leading to some of the most beautiful waterfalls you’ll ever see. The most famous one is Rio Celeste, with its spectacular turquoise waters, but the Bajos del Toro area is worth a visit as well! You won’t believe the amount of incredible waterfalls hidden within this off-the-beaten path cloud forest.
Puntarenas
Central and South Pacific
Puntarenas is Costa Rica’s largest province and covers most of its Pacific coast. The most commercially important port in the country, Puerto Caldera, is located close to the capital city of Puntarenas. Going south, you’ll find Jacó – a great beach if you’re looking to surf and party hard. Then, we get to Manuel Antonio, probably the most popular spot in the province, and an ideal beach/jungle destination, with its gorgeous coast, incredible wildlife and amazing adventures.
Let’s move down to the South Pacific, full of raw, natural beauty. Between the pristine, rainforest-lined beaches, waterfalls rushing down mountains, and the astonishing amount of life all around, it’s hard to know where to start! Experienced surfers will love Dominical, a laid-back town with some of the best and biggest waves in the country. Uvita offers calmer waters, and awesome whale watching at certain times of the year. Last, but certainly not least, the Osa Peninsula is home to the Corcovado National Park. The National Geographic has described this area as “the most biologically intense place on Earth in terms of biodiversity”.
Southern Nicoya Peninsula and Monteverde
We’re not done with the coast, though! The southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula also belongs to Puntarenas, and offers miles of beautiful light sand beaches with clear waters, stunning waterfalls and biological reserves. Montezuma is a fun little bohemian town and is a perfect base to explore the Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve, the Curú Wildlife Refuge (home of the breathtaking Playa Quesera), or the Montezuma Falls. Further West, Santa Teresa and Mal Pais are absolute heaven for surfers, yogis and sunset lovers.
But wait, there’s more! It’s not only beaches here, the most visited cloud forest in Costa Rica, Monteverde, is also in Puntarenas. Recreational zipline was invented here, and the birdwatching is amazing. This area produces some of the best things in life, too: coffee, chocolate and cheese.
Guanacaste
Guanacaste, in the Northwest of Costa Rica is best known for its incredible beaches, and almost year-round dry, sunny weather. This makes it an ideal destination for tourists in search of a quick getaway from the cold winters up north. It’s no wonder many larger resorts have set up camp in this area, and the country’s second international airport, Liberia (LIR), was built here. Inland Guanacaste, however, is just as beautiful and unique, with its lakes, volcanoes and National Parks.
North Guanacaste Beaches
Less than an hour from Liberia (LIR) international airport, you can already experience some of the most gorgeous beaches in Costa Rica! In a country where everything is usually at least 3 hours away, that is quite amazing. Playa Hermosa and Playas del Coco are probably the most popular spots around here, as they have little towns. However. the most beautiful beaches are a bit further north.
You will find some of the most luxurious hotels in the country on the Papagayo Peninsula, and this is not a coincidence. The beaches there are breathtaking! Calm, crystal-clear waters and light sand, surrounded by lots of vegetation, even in this dry area. You don’t need to spend a night at the Four Seasons to enjoy a day on Playa Nacascolo, though. In fact, this can make a perfect day trip from Nuevo Arenal, as it’s less than 2.5 hours away!
Central Beaches
Most people who visit Guanacaste end up at the beaches in the central area. Tamarindo is probably the most popular spot! A lively little beach town with something for almost everyone: surfing, swimming, great shopping, lots of restaurants and nightlife that is avoidable if you want it to be. It can feel a bit built-up and crowded at time, though.
For a quieter experience, Flamingo is a nice alternative. Playa Conchal is another classic, a gorgeous beach close to the little town of Brasilito for shopping or a meal. From late October to mid-February, you can also witness the massive leatherback turtles nesting on the beaches of Las Baulas National Park. Playa Grande, close by, is great for surfing as well.
Northern Nicoya Peninsula
The north part of the Nicoya Peninsula belongs to Guanacaste, too. The beaches in this area are fantastic, and usually not too crowded!
Samara achieves the difficult balance of being a little town that has everything you need, while not attracting hoards of tourists. The beach there is beautiful, and Carrillo, just a 10-minute drive away is even prettier! The Nosara area is a bit tougher to access, but well worth it if you are looking for a paradise for surfers and yogis.
One of nature’s most impressive and mysterious phenomena happens here as well: the olive ridley sea turtle arribadas. At least once a month, from August to December, hundreds of thousands of turtles come to nest on the beach of Ostional over the course of a few days.
Inland Guanacaste
BUT WAIT! There’s more than just beaches in Guanacaste. You can visit the Casona de Santa Rosa, where one of the most important battles for Costa Rica’s national identity occurred, in the Santa Rosa National Park. The Rincón de la Vieja and Miravalles Volcano National Parks are worth a visit, too. Their trails lead can lead you to amazing waterfalls, boiling mud pots, natural hot springs, and more!
Last, but definitely not least, Nuevo Arenal is Guanacaste, too! Our little lakeside town is in one of the few rainforest areas in the province. The weather can be interesting, but the views and peace here are worth it. There’s a lot more adventures around here than you’d think, too, especially if you have a car.
Limon
Limón, on the Caribbean coast, is the seventh province and amazing in its very own way. The Moin port, close to the city of Limón, is commercially important for the country, but you won’t want to stay around this area. As in most areas in Costa Rica, the most beautiful spots are outside the cities, but the difference is even more dramatic here.
Towards the north of the province, you’ll find Tortuguero. This is Costa Rica’s little Amazon, and one of the world’s most important turtle nesting sites. Wildlife observation in general is insane here, and the fact that this place is only accessible via boat or plane makes the experience even more interesting.
To the south, most people stay in Puerto Viejo or the surrounding beaches. This laid-back, colorful surfer town is a perfect base to explore miles of breathtaking beaches. Playa Cocles is great for surfing, while Playa Chiquita or Punta Uva are perfect for a more relaxing day. Of course, nature enthusiasts will want to check out Gandoca-Manzanillo or the Cahuita National Park. The region’s Rasta vibe and rustic accommodations may put some off, but it’s heaven for the right person!
Geography of Costa Rica
Costa Rica is located in Central America, between Panama to the south, and Nicaragua to the north. Its total area is 51,100 km², making it one of the region’s smallest states. With both a Caribbean and Pacific coast, the country has 1,260 kms of shores! Let’s take a closer look.
Mountain Ranges
The land here is mountainous, with 4 mountain ranges which form the “backbone” of the country: the Guanacaste, Tilarán, Talamanca and Central Volcanic ranges (cordilleras). They form part of the Continental Divide of the Americas, separating the Caribbean and Pacific watersheds.
Mountain Range Of Guanacaste
The Guanacaste Cordillera is the limit between the Alajuela and Guanacaste provinces, in the northeast of the country. Its highest peak is the Miravalles Volcano, at 2,028 m. Some other important peaks are the Arenal Volcano, the Rincón de la Vieja Volcano and Tenorio Volcano.
Costa Rica also produces geothermal power, a renewable source of energy, from plants close to the Rincón de la Vieja and Miravalles volcanoes. This accounts for about 15% of the country’s energy production.
Tilaran Mountain Range
Also called the Sierra Minera, the Tilaran Mountain range is a subdivision of the Guanacaste Cordillera. It extends from Arenal to Tapezco, and includes the Arenal and Chato volcanoes. The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is part of this area as well.
Central Volcanic Mountain Range
The Central Range is separated from the Tilaran Range by the Balsa River. It extends from Tapezco to the Pacuare River. Its highest peak is the Irazu Volcano, at 3,432 m. The Cordillera Central is also home to the Poas, Barva and Turrialba. These are all protected by national parks, with Poas being one of the most visited parks in the country (along with Manuel Antonio),
Talamanca Mountain Range
The Talamanca Range extends from the south of Costa Rica’s Central Valley to the Panamanian border. La Amistad International Park, shared between Costa Rica and Panama, protects most of this cordillera. The country’s highest peaks are here, most notably Cerro Chirripó, at 3,820 m. This area is extremely difficult to access, and much of it remains unexplored!
Rivers
The rivers in Costa Rica are another big attraction, and there are adventures for everyone! The Pacuare River, which flows into the Caribbean Sea, is one of the best ones in the world for rafting. The dense, lush rainforest all around and exciting class III-IV rapids make this an incredibly memorable experience.
The Sarapiqui River is another great option for rafting, also for the adventurous, with class III-IV rapids. Other sections of the river offer amazing opportunities for wildlife observation. Birdwatching in particular is excellent here.
Other rivers will also delight birdwatchers. The Palo Verde National Park protects part of the Tempisque River, on the Nicoya Peninsula. There, you can observe Central America’s highest concentration of migratory birds. Almost 300 different species have been recorded!
The Rio Savegre is worth exploring as well! This is a popular option for fun rafting in the Manuel Antonio area, and a nice hike through the cloud forest in San Gerardo de Dota will lead you to the beautiful Savegre Waterfall.
Islands in Costa Rica
Nicoya Archipelago
Most of the inhabited islands in Costa Rica belong to the Nicoya Archipelago, a group of volcanic islands in the Gulf of Nicoya. The largest one is Isla Chira. It’s home to a fishing community and the highest biodiversity for tropical dry forest flora in Costa Rica.
Isla San Lucas, closer to Puntarenas, also has a very interesting history! There are several archeological sites there, showing that the island was inhabited as early as 1,000-1,500 A.D. by indigenous groups. San Lucas then served as a prison until 1991. The island is now a wildlife preserve, and people can still visit the remnants of the prison.
Isla Tortuga, off the coast of the Curu Wildlife Refuge, is a popular spot for tourists. Many companies offer a boat tour with snorkeling, food, drinks, and time to take in the picture perfect white sand beach and clear waters. This is a fantastic day trip from Jacó, Montezuma, Mal Pais/Santa Teresa, or even San José!
Central and South Pacific Islands
Venturing further south, we can find Damas Island, just a few minutes away from Quepos. Mangroves surround it, making it a great spot for wildlife observation. Kayaking or boat tours through the estuaries are available from Manuel Antonio and Jacó to get a closer look at the island’s inhabitants.
Off the coast of Drake Bay, on the Osa Peninsula, lies Isla del Caño. The island is a national park, and attracts many visitors for whale watching and some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving in Costa Rica. There’s plenty of marine life here, and dolphins, manta rays and sea turtles can often be spotted as well. Caño Island is also famous for its pre-Columbian artifacts, most notably the Diquis stone spheres.
Cocos Island
The most interesting island in Costa Rica is probably Cocos Island. Even Jacques Cousteau thought it was the most beautiful one in the world! It’s located about 550 km southwest of the mainland and is only reachable by boat. The journey takes around 36 hours from Puntarenas. As the island is so remote and well protected (its only inhabitants are the National Park rangers and scientists), there is a large number of endemic species on it. This makes it a perfect natural “laboratory” to study evolution.
Cocos Island also happens to be one of the top 10 best scuba diving sites in the world. It’s particularly well known for having enormous schools of hammerhead sharks. Of course, sharks are not the only attraction! Cocos Island houses over 300 species of fish – some of them endemic, pilot whales, sea turtles, manta rays, corals and much more.
